BGA's "Five Questions" Presents: Mr. Ryan Hall
I first met Ryan at BGA Camp last summer. Understated manner but well-dressed, curious, with piercing eyes, he is the kind of learner who didn't ask many questions, yet one could see his hungry mind rapidly making connections. Then again, he was one of the few people to approach me after class. I wondered who he was, I think someone told me he was a home barista. Little did I know he'd already been working for Panther Coffee in Miami for more than a month.
I have to admit I was surprised to see him on the competitor list for the Southeast Regional Brewers Cup. I think I even said, "Where did this guy come from?"
Ryan's career in coffee began in New York City's Upper East Side. In 2008 he began working as a barista for Nepresso. "I loved the job for reasons other than coffee," he admits, but credits his time there for superb training in hospitality. Two years later, he moved to Ft. Lauderdale, continuing to work in coffee, this time for a local shop equipped with a La Marzocco GB/5 & Swift Grinder, as well as a Malkonig Guatemala. "It was when the the coffee was out of the "capsule" and into my hand that I really began to develop a relationship with coffee," he says. At this point Ryan began an intense period of learning about the barista craft. "It was blogs, books and...blogs," he says, laughing. He also began using the SCAA resource library to study for the BGA Level One exam.
In late 2011, Ryan began to "realize that I was exhausting my resources at the current job." In early 2012, little knowing he would be a finalist in the Brewers Cup later the same year, he hung out as an observer at the SERBC. That May he began working for Panther Coffee, and in June he attended BGA Camp, gaining a Level One Certificate. In December, Ryan placed 4th in the SE Regional Brewers Cup.
Early in 2013, impressed by his Brewers Cup routine, and smitten with the entire Panther coffee crew, I reached out to Ryan to ask him a few questions.
Colin: You credit your time as a barista for Nespresso on the Upper East Side of NYC for it's hospitality training. What is great hospitality, what is it capable of achieving, and how important is hospitality in the barista craft?
Ryan: Hospitality can be fun and it should be. It really is important to start out with the right attitude. Yes, hospitality is acknowledging guests as they enter, smiling, and being polite, but those are really just basics that make up about 40% of what hospitality is. Hospitality is creativity + attention to detail and there is detail in everything. It can be everything from the cleanliness of your establishment to the font and arrangement of your menus. Are your doors easy for guests to open? Are your cups and spoons positioned properly on their saucers? Is the toilet paper rolling in the right direction (seriously). This is where I find that there is fun in hospitality. It is about creating the least amount of friction with guests during their stay, consciously AND sub-consciously!
There is also the communication side of hospitality too. The communication side cannot happen I feel, until the first things I mentioned are in order. The guests must first feel comfortable (Or as Danny Meyer says in "Setting The Table" you must meet a core need that every person has inside them: A sense of belonging) and from there they will open up with questions. This is where we find that hospitality is an essential tool to the barista craft. I know that as a barista I thrive on questions. Our answers as baristas are the bridge for what comes before us (Seed to Cup) and the consumers questions are their foot steps across (A heavy responsibility for us to have). Only till our guests feel comfortable will they open up and ask questions and only till then will the barista be able to meet his/her full potential. Until that Hospitality happens all the info we "give" to the guest is just ego-filling. I love hospitality. Hospitality is good.
Colin: We've just begun a new year, what was your most memorable espresso of 2012? Most memorable filtered coffee?
Ryan: The most memorable espresso for me was definitely made with Panther's Finca El Ventilador from Colombia. It is balanced, juicy, floral bliss! [Ed. Note this coffee just recently won a Good Food Award]
I had some really great brewed coffees in 2012 but for me my most memorable one has to be the one that I competed with: Panther's Finca La Providencia from Guatemala. It is the first time I have competed in a coffee competition. I brewed that coffee a lot. It is the first coffee that I developed a relationship with, literally! We got into fights.... we would kiss and make up... then argue about something.... then found a way to compromise.... All jokes aside though, it was a great coffee. Juicy plum front, syrupy body, soft vanilla finish, leaves the mouth feeling cool, then an even longer orange peel finish reminiscent of Campari.
Colin: As a finalist at the Southeast Regional Brewers Cup, you sifted fines from your coffee grounds. Can you briefly explain the idea behind this? Are fines evil? Is removing fines from coffee grounds the future, or just an oddity?
Ryan: When grinding coffee you have an inevitable coffee dust that exists within the bed of coffee. That coffee dust is known as fines. When brewing coffee you have to pay attention to the surface area of the grind set. Fines are a sort of surface area overload mixed in with the grounds. Coffee science says those little guys are going to over extract and have you adding unpleasant tastes to your cup of coffee. All that being said, do I think coffee fines are evil? No, definitely not. I think we have a decision to make. I cannot make the decision, you cannot make the decision, our industry cannot make the decision. I think this will be a decision that is left to be decided by society as a whole. It is a really difficult question that I have thought about before and have become overwhelmed with at times (I know I am not alone). At the moment I like to look at the removing of fines from a grind set as a brewing method rather than a standard that everyone should follow. "Sieving Fines Method" is appropriate in certain context just like the French Press.
Colin: Considering that Miami, FL is very hot and humid, hot coffee is probably not a beverage that most people are thinking about consuming, what cool coffee beverages do you recommend as an alternative?
Ryan: Believe it or not we have a surprising amount of people who still take the hot option during the summer, but the cold coffee beverage request definitely does pick up quite a bit. We serve cold brew at Panther Coffee, and YES we have a cult following for the beverage. Does it have something to do with the caffeine content over the fact that it is a chilled beverage? I don't know, but people love it, we love it and we love that they love it!
Colin: In less than one year, you've gone from a relative coffee newbie to a finalist in the SE Brewers Cup. Do you have any words of wisdom for others starting out on the path of a coffee professional?
Ryan: Connect with coffee professionals and keep going. It is not an immediately rewarding profession financially, but dangit! if you love it COMMIT! Use the Specialty Coffee Association of America and Barista Guild as a reliable resource, ask them questions and as you progress help those behind ya! Oh and taste coffee all the time...
Colin: Finally... As you know, I'm in love with pretty much everyone over at Panther Coffee, can you talk more about what makes Panther such a great company to be a part of?
Ryan: I actually recently thought about this. Apart from amazing access to beautiful coffees and amazing gear to run it through, I came to the conclusion that it is because Panther Coffee is set up like a family. With Joel and Leticia Pollock having a significant amount of years in the industry they sit up on top as Dad and Mom having the coffee wisdom. They teach a lot simply by doing what they do. I have a bunch of coffee brothers and sisters growing, and we all love to spend time with each other. We have family dinners every friday just to hang out, eat, drink, talk and have fun. It's the first job actually where 9 times out of 10 I will be finishing up a shift with a fellow barista and we look at each other and say "Wanna hang out?" Great community.
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Look for Ryan at this spring's US Brewers Cup, and for more great stuff from the Panther Coffee family. Thanks to Ryan for subjecting himself to my incessant questioning and for being an inspiration to all aspiring coffee pros.
Up in next edition...????? Can't wait for Michael to pull back the curtain on our next barista.